Vila Joya

Vila Joya was a family home before it was a hotel, and the owner, Joy, still greets guests in the hall of the house she grew up in. That fact explains most of what is different about the place.

It stands above Praia da Galé, west of Albufeira, on a stretch of coast that stays almost wild despite everything built either side of it. There are thirteen suites, all facing south-west into the afternoon sun, in a Moorish-influenced villa surrounded by gardens that run down towards the beach. The scale is domestic. There is a pool, a small spa, and a great deal of quiet.

The restaurant is why most people come. Dieter Koschina, an Austrian chef who has spent more than three decades here, has held two Michelin stars since 1995, which makes this the longest-standing two-star kitchen in Portugal. The menu changes daily, built from what the local fishermen and farmers bring that morning, and the cooking sits between central European classical technique and Portuguese ingredients. There is a set menu of six courses most nights and a longer gala dinner on Thursdays. Vegetarian, vegan and dairy-free versions are available, which at this level is less common than it should be. The cellar holds around 12,000 bottles.

The arrangement is unusual and worth stating: this is a restaurant with rooms as much as a hotel with a restaurant, and staying here means you can eat a four-hour tasting menu and walk upstairs.

It holds two Michelin Keys and is a member of Relais & Châteaux. Faro airport is around forty minutes.