Casa do Valle

Sintra is built on the side of a hill and the buildings step down it, which is why so many of the town's houses have gardens on several levels. Casa do Valle is one of these, terraced into the slope below the historic centre, with the valley opening out in front of it towards the wooded hills.

The result is a property that feels considerably further from town than it is. The pool sits on one of the terraces with a long view over the valley, there is a children's pool beside it, and the gardens run across several levels with picnic areas, a barbecue and outdoor seating. A sauna and treatment room handle massage and reflexology.

The eco credentials are real rather than decorative: electric vehicle charging, low-impact operation, and a general orientation towards guests who arrive to walk rather than to be driven from palace to palace.

There are twelve rooms and family rooms, straightforward rather than designed, with hardwood floors, refrigerators, garden or mountain views and interconnecting options. Superior rooms on the slope side have the better outlook. There is a shared kitchen, a library and a terrace, and breakfast can be taken in the room.

Be clear on the classification. This is a three-star guesthouse rather than a hotel, priced accordingly, and it does not have a restaurant, a bar or a lift. What it has instead is a pool, a garden, and a position that few properties in Sintra can match.

That position is the argument. The National Palace is a short walk uphill, the Moorish Castle and Pena are above that, and Quinta da Regaleira is close. The walk back down at the end of the day is easy; the walk up is Sintra's standard tax. Lisbon airport is around thirty minutes by car, and the train station is walkable.